sometimes I get a good feeling June 13, 2013

This is a funny time of year for designing – lots of things are happening that are related to the whole process of me-to-you via trade shows and shipping and display but not a lot of real stitching going on!

THAT is going to change rather quickly!

All of my extra-curricular non-knitting tasks are DONE and I get can going on some new designs.

And there’s nothing like some scrumptious dramatic yarn to whet one’s appetite for some sassy stylings:

Chic Knits Knitting Blog

Here you see a trio of Artisan Sock skeins from Hazel Knits that’s destined to become some lovely accessories.

I’ve gotten the bulk of one pattern completed, with a pile of swatches made.

(yes) PILE!

One is never enough here at Studio Chic.

I’ll get one done and let it marinate for awhile then inevitably, I’ll see where I can slightly tweak and improve and then it’s off to another cast on and another swatch gets made.

And, I must be one of the crazy knitters in the world because I love swatching! It’s just part of the process that builds confidence that what you envision is what is actually going to appear as a result.

Do not fear it; do not hate it. If your knitting is not coming out right, your swatch is your road map to get you back on track.

The most common derailments I get email on are gauge issues like this:
– gauge changes from stockinette to other patterning
– gauge changes from a large section into a smaller section
– gauge changes from a section knit in rows into a section knit-in-the-round

IF you’ve made a good size swatch, when you see the Hinky land on your needles (and it just might) it is a short step to go up or down a needle size and get right back on track.

The most you’ve lost is one or a few rows/rnds.

Ripping and adjusting is really just part of the creative process. Sometimes the emails I get are so frustrated and angry that that might have to happen but I offer: resistance is futile.

It’s kind of like ripping off a bandage – do it quickly and cleanly and move forward.

Here at the beginning of a project, swatching is kind of like sketching or story-boarding the production and the entire outcome stands on its foundation. I respect.

(And it’s time to get my hands on that orange yarn.)

Almost There August 26, 2010

Getting ready for a trip out of town can sometimes be a frenzied task, especially when it includes Knitting Projects To-Go.

I’m trying to wrap up and prepare a couple of goodies to take up north to Michigan. Here’s my Twist cardi ready to be seamed, then hooded. I’m hoping to do all the seaming and buttonbands once I land in the country (visualizing now sitting on the porch swing, ribbing…)

twist_9775

I set it out flat like this so we could see a wonderful phenom characteristic of piece knitting.

Here you can see that the side edges and armhole edges of the Front pieces mimic the Back.

How do they correspond? Taking a look you can see:

The Right Front has the same shaping as the Left Back Edge.

The Left Front has the same shaping as the Right Back Edge.

From the Chic Knits Archive:

How to continue and match the pieces of a sweater? Like many of you, I make a working copy of the pattern then do Mark-Up. In the margins, I keep track of rows in various places (length of ribbing, length to underarm, length to shoulder, total length, etc) as reference points for the entire sweater.

If you notice, sweaters knit in pieces already have this functionality built in. They usually start you out with the Back Piece first. Here you will find the Rosetta Stone for the Fronts. Many times, knitters email me with shaping questions about cardigan construction and I always refer them back to the Back.

Now, this requires a slight leap of imagination, because the Back, as is, is the Mirror Image of the other pieces and not the doppelganger…

All of the shaping information one needs to make the Body and Armhole areas of the Fronts are already accomplished on the Back.

So, if a pattern gives instructions as: “Continue as for Left Front, reversing all shaping. Substitute SSK for K2TOG and vice versa as needed, using Back piece for reference, as needed”

Spread the Back piece out and read it like a map! :)

i knit you knit Tuesday, February 9, 2010

iknityouknit-65x72

In the tons of emails we get everyday, there are some common threads and questions that land on our desk, so we thought we’d start a segment on ye olde blog for a little of this’n’that. I always end up learning a lot in the answering myself and am trying to learn to be more eloquent and respectful to the experiences of all of us knitting together (i.e. please bear with me).

Here’s three excerpts with some recent themes…

DECREASING in a Lace Pattern…
From January 30th: “Hi Bonne Marie, I’ve decided it’s time to resurrect my Ariann from ’08. Oh yeah, I remember why it was deep-sixed… the decreases (top of page 4) confused me. Would you be able to lend a hand?

So, I’ve joined the Body & Sleeves (whoops, I typed “boy” & sleeves) and I’ve knit my first decreases row ( SSK, K1,SM, K1,K2Tog) successfully, so I get that, but… what should I do when I get to a place when the eyelet pattern already calls for a SSK or a K2Tog? Should I omit a YO instead, or SSSK and K3tog or a K?”

La Réponse: “Glad to hear you’ve recusitated a project! I’m doing that myself with a Twist sweater I started :)
 
Decreasing in Lace:
The secret is understanding that all of the lace is made up of paired decreases. That means it is 1-to-1 K2TOG to a YO or SSK to a YO. Each decrease has a corresponding yarnover, either before or after.
 
The Ariann stitch pattern is a 12 st repeat of two 6 st sections. If you look a the graph, you see there are two paired decreases, each which contains a YO. If you cannot do the YO, do not do the DEC.
 
Just work that 6-st section as Stockinette st or you will end up with a lot of extra stitches.
 
Look at your chart and visualize what is happening across the pattern repeat. Really look at that 1-to-1 pairing and see how it looks on the chart. Since you are having trouble, use more stitch markers to indicate the beginning or end of your lace repeats – especially towards the raglan area. That way, you can see at a glance how many stitches are left in each respective area.
 
VERY IMPORTANT: If you do not have enough stitches to do a whole paired decrease (look at your chart to check if needed) work those stitches as plain knit stitches on the RS and purl on the WS.”

REVERSE ALL SHAPING…
From February 8: “I just wanted to write to say that although I love the cardigan I am now working on- Twist, I am frustrated to have paid almost $6.00 for what I consider to be an incomplete pattern. Spacing for buttonholes is not given and I also don’t like how the right front pattern just tells me to copy the left front, but swap the increases, etc. I have worked more complete free patterns than this and I am disappointed enough to think twice before buying another Chic Knits pattern again.”

La Réponse: “We can appreciate your frustration, but in actuality, all the information you need is already in the pattern. :)
 
Did you know that most sweater patterns that are knit in pieces start off with the Back section for a great reason? (Perhaps you weren’t taught this when you made your first sweater.) But this is the main reason why a pattern does not include those directions more than once. No one is trying to frustrate the knitter; it just isn’t necessary to repeat the process.
 
In the Back piece, all the directions for all shaping that occurs on both sides of the pattern, ie. side shaping, armholes, etc. will also apply to the Front pieces. Front shaping has to match when you put the sweater together, so the Back is a great reference when you make the other pieces.
 
It is to be used as the template for the Fronts as you knit them; each side of the Back corresponds to one side of the Front. With right-side facing outward, the right edge (first edge worked) instructions of the Back apply to the Left Front shapings; the left edge (last edge worked) instructions of the Back apply to the Right Front shapings.
 
You can read the directions directly from the Back for those particular sections without having to re-invent the wheel when you get to either Front.
 
Hope this helps a little…”

CAN’T OPEN MY PDF:
From February 8: “Hello – I purchased the bucket hat pattern yesterday and somehow downloaded and unreadable pattern. I am not computer savvy. Can you help me in any way?… I am so disappointed with my error because I can not proceed after finding this great pattern. Hope you can help me!!”

La Réponse: “Sounds like the wrong Program is opening the PDF file and you are getting gibberish; this is a file association thing on your computer. The file is not damaged. It should be opened using the Adobe Acrobat Reader Program instead of what is trying to control it.
 
If you are unsure of where or if you have Adobe Acrobat Reader (most computers come with this program already loaded), you can download it here.
 
Try this:
Do not double-click on your file. OPEN THE Adobe Acrobat Reader program FIRST. Then got to the Menu Bar>File>Open & choose your file from wherever it downloaded to and it should pop right open.
 
Save it (using the Save As choice) to a safe place on your hard drive where you can find it and print out a copy for safe keeping.”

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

That’s it for now! Anybody who understands how to TAG posts using WordPress — could you drop me a line HERE – (infoATchicknitsDOTcom…) — I’m in need of some direction myself ;p

Don’t quite understand how to do this best…